Sunday, July 31, 2016

Day 6: Anchoring in the Bay

Day 6: July 31st, 2016.  Bay City, MI.  3.8 miles.  By Judd Curran.


While officially a day off from riding, we decided to log the few miles we rode while transitioning from the home of our awesome WarmShowers hosts across the Saginaw River to the east side of Bay City where we booked a night at the historic Webster House Bed and Breakfast to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

Victoria had a rough time getting out of the ultra-comfortable bed in Greg and Kim's well-equipped trailer.  So, I was out first and in the kitchen of the main house chatting with Greg over a fresh pot of coffee and homemade bread coated with their own homemade strawberry and rhubarb jams.  Greg, a preacher at the adjacent church on the same property, was up early, presumably gearing up for his morning sermon.  My mind was preoccupied with thoughts swirling around in my head from the interesting conversations Victoria and I had with Greg, Kim, Noah, and Isaiah the evening before (more on that later).


It wasn't long before we were packed up and heading across the river in search of a big breakfast.  Crossing the drawbridge over the large Saginaw River was cause for concern, as is any large bridge over major rivers, especially drawbridges.  Because bridges are really expensive to build, or they are older, there often isn't extra space for someone on a bicycle, requiring full use of a lane of the bridge to get across.  In addition, bridges often have large expansion joints that can be difficult to ride across on a suspensionless road bike.  Because drawbridges need to be built with less weight, an open steel bridge surface (you can see through it) is employed, and often provides little traction, especially when wet, for small bicycle tires.  Fortunately, on this Sunday traffic was light, and the steel grid section was short.

We sailed across the river to the older part of Bay City, and found Heather's, a great mostly vegan breakfast cafe and bakery in an old brick building.


Following breakfast, we rolled a few blocks to Harless & Hugh for some caffeine.  It was here that we would spend several hours writing for our blog, planning our future route and schedule, and chatting with the locals while enjoying fresh-roasted Ethiopia drip, Cortados, Macchiatos, and locally baked treats.


The coffee kept us going as we purged 3 days of notes and thoughts swirling in our minds, all while waiting for rain to let up and our room to be ready at the BnB.


Victoria and I decided before our trip commenced that we would alternate writing posts.  For me, reading her posts is a real treat as she reveals the full spectrum of her thoughts and feelings while pedaling down the road.


The bicycle plays an important role in Bay City life.  More than just a recreational tool, folks take full advantage of the opportunity to get out into the warm air surrounded by green for the few months of Summer while it lasts.  As such, creative options are available to enhance the bicycle as an everyday means of transportation.  In the cafe, a bicycle on display showcased one such option, a leather six-pack holder that hangs conveniently off the top tube of a bicycle frame.  Very cool!


We were approached by a skinny gentleman with short hair and glasses who, after seeing our bicycles outside, struck up a conversation about our journey.  Before leaving, he told us he had a truck and, after checking with his wife, wanted to offer to us a ride anywhere in the city if we needed to pick up supplies or groceries.  One of many acts of kindness as people go out of their way to offer to help us in our adventure.

Finished with writing and antsy to see more of the city, we jumped back on our bicycles and headed to the historic Bay City city hall, built in 1890.  It has been described by some as being one of the most beautiful city halls in the nation.  It was quite impressive.


We received a text from Deborah, owner of the Historic Webster House Bed and Breakfast, that our room was ready.  A short walk from the riverfront, the BnB was a breathtaking mansion, one of several in the city built by a lumber baron in 1886.


Our room was spacious, complete with a feather pillow top mattress.  


As if that wasn't enough, Victoria called my attention to the remote control for the in-room jacuzzi.  Yes, there was a jacuzzi in our room.


Evening wine and sumptuous snacks were offered to us, as well as menus and recommendations for nearby restaurants along the river.


 Setting out on foot, we made our way through the old neighborhood of grand homes to the waterfront.  The 3 bedroom, 3 bathroom, 4,000 square foot home in the photo below, after having been recently renovated, is going on the market for around $120,000


We made our way to dinner at a restaurant called the "Old City Hall", housed in the original building that was home to city hall before the grand structure was later built. The food was good, and they were serving up one of the local's favorite regional beers called the Edmund Fitzgerald, by Great Lakes Brewing Company.


As we continued our walk after dinner, interesting art, sculptures, and architecture lined the river.


We found "Unity Park", a great use of a small space between two buildings.


We also spotted artists actively sprucing up the weathered and worn side of a brick building.


The sun sets late at these northern latitudes this time of year.  As such, we were able to catch a glimpse of a spectacular sunset along the river at around 9 pm.


After a great day of rest while exploring Bay City, Victoria said she was feeling so good that she could walk on water.



Day 5: Frankenstein, Unicorns, and Dill heads

Day 5: July 30th, 2016. Midland MI to Bay City MI. 32.5 miles.
By Victoria Curran.


Well rested from indulging ourselves in the luxury of the H Hotel in Midland, we went downstairs to CaFe Zn (see what they did there?  Pull out your Periodic Table of the Elements: Calcium, Iron, and Zinc. And the hotel, of course, is Hydrogen) and ate a delicious breakfast. Mine was salmon and asparagus scrambled into eggs that were set atop roasted potatoes and jack cheese. So yum!


Judd had a sort of eggs Benedict with pesto, served with hash browns.


Then we pedaled out of town. From the H Hotel to the Midland High School Chemics to Dow High School, the presence of Dow Chemical is evident throughout Midland, Michigan.


As we rolled out of town, the road was once again straight and flat which made the trip easier.  But, then a headwind kicked up which slowed us (well, me) down and soured my mood. Having been on the road for four days with 230 miles under our belt, I was ready for a day off; but Judd wanted to keep moving but keep it a light day. Despite the rejuvenating hotel experience, I became a bit petulant and cranky.  And the narrow road with no shoulder and cars driving far too closely and far too quickly for my comfort certainly didn't help.


I started playing the following scene in my mind as the clouds overhead began to threaten rain:

   Igor: "could be worse" (optimistically)
   Dr. Frankenstein: "how?"  (Snidely)
   Igor: "could be raining" (matter-of-
          factly)
   (Crash of thunderbolt and pouring rain)

Yeah, I was headed downhill even as I pedaled on flat ground.  

We arrived safely (and dry) into the outskirts of Bay City (yes, Bay City. On a Saturday night) and Judd suggested we cycle to the Bay City Recreational Area to place our hands into the second of the four Great Lakes we will visit.


Still fighting the vestiges of crankiness, I reluctantly agreed.  When we arrived, I felt my mood lift and when fingertips touched water, the crankasaurus swam away.


As we turned to head back to our bikes, I noticed for the first time that the beach was blanketed with a type of seashell I collected on the shores of Carpinteria State Beach with my grandmother when I was a child. I have always called them unicorn shells and I believe it was my grandma who told me that these were all that remain of the unicorns that once roamed the beaches. Then again, maybe I told me that. 


After collecting my treasure, we mounted our bicycles and continued our journey.  And, wouldn't you know it?  The skies opened.  It was raining.  But, my spirits were buoyed by the trek down to the lake.  Plus, I remembered we had berry turnovers strapped to my rack.  Yay!


After our delicious treat (Judd has cherry and cream cheese, mine was blueberry cream cheese) we headed toward the home of our first WarmShowers hosts of the trip: Greg, Kim, and their five children.  As WarmShowers hosts ourselves, it is so fun to experience WarmShowers on the receiving end.  Greg and Kim were very welcoming and so interesting to talk with.  They opened their arms and doors to us without reservation, providing us with a warm shower, clean towels, a comfortable bed in their RV, and a delicious meal consisting of pickled beets (from their garden and pickled by them), asparagus, sweet potatoes, rice pilaf, chicken (for Judd) and hard boiled eggs (for me).  Before dinner, Kim, their son, Noah, and I went to their garden to cut dill heads to make dill pickles that night. 


We sat and chatted through the evening, then bedded down for a restful night's sleep and in the morning were treated to fresh baked bread with strawberry jam they had made. Wow, what a treat!  Thanks again, Greg, Kim and your entire wonderful family!!





Friday, July 29, 2016

Day 4: Pere Marquette Trail, Corn Wagon, and Chemical Giant

Day 4:  July 29th, 2016
Lake George MI to Midland MI. 49 miles.
By Judd Curran.  


Refreshed!  A great night's sleep, clean laundry, and warm showers.  It rained a bit in the middle of the night, enough to prompt me to get up and grab my already-wet helmet and tuck it under the rain fly.  By morning, most everything was dry.  Our Intelligensia fine-ground coffee we purchased in Chicago was dripping into our coffee cups while we deconstructed camp.  A breakfast joint in our sights about 15 miles down the road in Farwell, population 871, kept us focused on getting an earlier start -- at least early enough to not miss the breakfast service.  

We were camping across the road from the lake at a private campground.  Usually avoiding private establishments due to the higher cost and variable conditions, we were pleasantly surprised by the friendly owners who offered traveling cyclists a 30% discount on the site.  


While sandwiched between two large motor homes, the whole of the campground was eerily quiet, and for us, pleasant.

On the road, we pedaled briskly with thoughts of fluffy pancakes and hash browns on our minds.  In these parts, refueling, whether in a car or on a bicycle, would come at a comparable price.


Alas, we arrived in Farwell, stopping just two storefronts off our route at a bustling small cafe called, "The Nest".  Our 11:15 am arrival was pushing the limits of breakfast, but we were in luck.


After our first real breakfast of the trip, we were in a good mood as we mounted our iron horses to continue exploring Michigan.  We had been riding East across the "mitt" of this green state, headed towards the thumb.


Needing a zoomed-out perspective of where we were exactly relative to the state, I checked our location (blue dot) on Google Maps.


Yep, it appears that we would be riding the middle finger of Michigan today.  

Crossing the main road of Farwell from the cafe, we immediately entered the beginning of the glorious Pere Marquette Rail Trail, a broad, smoothly-paved bike path connecting small towns that will guide us safely for the next 43 miles to the city of Midland.


Incredible investment has been made by the state to provide not only a safe alternative to car transportation, but a fun recreational ribbon connecting towns together.  The trail is complete with lots of signage, informing travelers of upcoming amenities available at each town.


As we entered the trail, I couldn't help but think about the trains that used to travel along this same path, and how this incredible transformation from rail-line to bike path is gifting me and thousands of other cyclists with what used to be a sight only a few conductors had the privilege to gaze upon.


Tree-lined and mostly shaded, we cruised along, often just the two of us, with occasional bursts of local riders as we passed through small communities.


At the small town of Clare, population 3,118, we were briefly routed off the trail and onto surface streets through town.  We passed by a stoner's unique mailbox along the way.


Like most small towns in the Midwest, identity is declared on the side of the prominent water tower, often the tallest feature on the landscape.


On our way through town, we came upon a mostly-empty field, occupied by a small carnival-style booth selling popcorn.  Brownie's Corn Wagon was the name written along the side in block-red letters.  Caramel corn, kettle corn, and buttered and salted popcorn were the specialties.  Still full from breakfast, we had no business stopping.  So, we stopped.  Popcorn to munch along the trail and kettle corn for later -- a few minutes later, and then again later, and ...


In the window, a prized possession, a thank you photo of the 2015 Clare County Fair pig, purchased by Brownies Popcorn Wagon.


A few more blocks through this bustling town, navigating by large trucks moving the resources extracted from the landscape, we eagerly pedaled towards the continuation of the bike trail.


Back on the trail, a carpet of wild flowers lined our route.


Every few miles, restrooms, bike racks, picnic tables, drinking fountains, and or benches interrupted the ribbon of green as welcomed amenities.


We crossed the Tittabawassee River on an old train trestle.


As we approached the city of Midland, historical markers along the path enlightened us about the importance of salt in this region.  Early uses, such as for preserving fish and other foods, curing meat, tanning hides, and for cooking, required that salt be imported from New York prior to Michigan statehood.  Salt springs and salt lands within Michigan were put in control of the state once established, and Douglass Houghton was appointed as the state geologist in the early 1800's to help develop the resource, including the salty springs along the Tittabawassee River.


The rail trail continued through Stanford, population 859, before the last 11.5 mile stretch to Midland.


As we exited the trail, we came upon the biggest thing since Milwaukee.  Midland, Michigan, with a population of 41,863, was an unfamiliar city.


Yet, as we wove our way into the city center, clues to an ominous presence gave familiarity to a place we had not been before.  We passed "Chemical Credit Union", then Midland High School, home of the "Chemics".  An industrial town suffering from a familiar economic decline to much of Michigan with the exportation of jobs and manufacturing within the auto industry, Midland's economy is still alive, fueled by surrounding agriculture in corn, soybean, and beets, and jobs at the headquarters of multinational Dow Chemical Corporation, putting Midland on the map.

After 3 days in a row of riding 50-60 miles, the equivalent of going from 0-60 mph in 2 seconds, Victoria was ready for a bit of pampering.  I wasn't opposed to it either.  She found the "H" hotel, just a few blocks away in the center of town, using Expedia on her cell phone.  We booked it, only later to find out that the "H" is in reference to the first element on the periodic table, Hydrogen.  The hotel was recently rebranded by the new owners, Dow, after a massive renovation from a dilapidated 2-star to a luxury 4-plus star hotel complete with glittering chandeliers and imported marble, catering to international Dow executives in-town for business.  

Walking into the opulent hotel in a U.S. Postal Service bike jersey and spandex shorts wasn't quite as awkward as pushing our loaded hobo-like bicycles through the well-appointed, downright luxurious lobby, complete with a half-eaten bag of kettle-corn and a carton of eggs strapped to the outside of my bike, across the marble floors, the reflection of the shiny marble surface reminding me of the obscurity of our passage, to the bank of elevators.  Our audience was as attentive as those watching a wedding procession.  Into the elevator we went, one at a time, headed to the second floor to duck behind door 214 as quickly as possible.


"Whoa!  Look, honey.... Chocolates on our pillow."  "And, a TV behind the mirror".  "Automated window shades too!"  Sheesh!

After getting a grip on our new surroundings, we headed out of the hotel to get something to eat.  On the sidewalk, we heard a group of cackling ladies talking about the Friday evening beer garden and food truck event a few blocks away.  We decided to check it out.  A new thing to Midland, and according to the locals, way outside the box of what normally happens in this conservative town, the Larkin Beer garden was bustling.


But, it had a slightly different feel to the beer gardens of Southern California that we have experienced.  Here, it was a big family affair, with games for the kids, and entertainment by the DHS (Dow High School) "Sax to the Max" band.


We enjoyed the event through sunset, then headed to a nearby pizza joint for dinner.  Another spectacular day full of the unexpected.